The center seam of the hull does require some attention. Hand sand for about six inches on either side of the center seam in order to smooth out irregularities left from the factory fairing.

If you moor your boat, choose a very hard bottom paint and wet sand it to as smooth a finish as possible.

Keel
One of the most critical and laborious aspects of preparing the J 22 is keel falrlng. Ideally, the keel should match the class templates (J 22 Class Rules PLAN C) for minimum thickness. If you sail in predominantly choppy conditions, you may want your keel slightly more full in the forward 30% of each station. An epoxy-faired keel with a gelcoat finish is durable, water tight and simple to repair in the event of a grounding.

A well-faired keel will provide more lift (better pointing ability) upwind and less drag (better speed) off the wind. If you choose to have your keel professionally faired, your Shore Sails loft can direct you to a qualified boat shop in your area.

Rudder
The rudders are excellent and require little more than running a sanding block along each side of the trailing edge.

Rig
With a little work, you can streamline the rig as follows:

Deck Layout
The deck layout has been continually updated by Tillotson-Pearson, and can be fine-tuned easily and inexpensively.

The halyard cleats should be changed to Harken camatic cleats. To do this, you must remove the sliding hatch cover. While you have it off, remove the spinnaker halyard fair lead and through-bolt it. Remember to counter sink all lock nuts; if you don't the hatch won't slide.

The jib cunningham should have the maximum legal purchase (4:1). The main cunningham needs only a 2:1 purchase.

Move the fairlead for the pole downhaul to just in front of the mast step. This gets it out of the way.

Put a winch handle holder on either side of the companionway. This keeps the handles close to the winches. Avoid putting a wire strap on the boom vang purchase. It tends to reduce the amount of vang you put on by forcing the cleat assembly sideways as you pull it.

Make a point of simplifying your boat by keeping the size and length of control lines to a minimum. Tie knots in the tails of your halyards and control lines where you think you maybe able to cut them off, then go sailing with your crew. If the knots are still in place at the end of the day, cut the lines.

After Stepping the Mast
1. Center the mast over the boat. To properly center the mast, measure back 8' from the jib tack shackle to each rail and mark the rail on each side. Using the jib halyard, measure down to each mark and adjust the uppers until the measurement is the same on each side. Then tighten the uppers an equal number of turns.

2. The amount of tension you put on the rig is determined by the mast step. The old style mast step is flat, meaning you can achieve more prebend. The new style step is angled, decreasing deck stress but also reducing the amount of prebend you can achieve.

Using a Loos Tension Gauge, tighten the uppers (flat step-300 lb.; angled step - 250 lb.). To ensure that the mast stays centered in the boat, have one person on each side of the boat yightening the shrouds simultaneously while counting out loud to ensure they put on the same number of turns.

3. Hand tighten the lowers and sight up the mast groove making sure that the mast is straight. Adjust the lowers to move the center of the mast in line with the hounds and mast tip. Now tighten the lowers to l50lbs. on flat steps and hand tight on angled. There should about 2" of prebend in the mast with a flat step or 1" with the angled step, with the maximum bend located roughly at the spreaders. When checking prebend, be sure that the backstay is slack and there is no tension on the halyards or boom topping lift.

4. Adjust your backstay bridle turnbuckles so that the rollers hang 4-6" below the connector plate when the backstay adjuster line is slack.

Fine Tuning the Rig
Your Shore mainsail is designed to perform with some prebend in the mast (see 3. above). With a deck-stepped mast, prebend is achieved through shroud tension. Tightening the uppers compresses the mast, pushing the middle forward. This compression or prebend flattens the lower part of the mainsail and increases headstay sag for light air conditions.

As the breeze builds and you tighten your shrouds, the lowers become progressively looser relative to the uppers. Because the lowers are pulling back on the middle of the mast they remove prebend as you tighten them. In heavy air your shroud tension setting will straighten your mast, thus eliminating prebend. In order to achieve the desired amount of bend for upwind sailing, you will have to apply backstay tension, flattening the main while automatically tightening the headstay. The tight headstay, in turn, flattens the front of the jib and creates a higher pointing, heavy air shape.

Shroud Tension
Your shrouds should be adjusted as follows for maximum performance.

      Angled Mast Step	
                        Uppers      Lowers
      0-8 knots true    250         hand tight
      8-l4 knots true   250         250
      14+ knots true    350         250

      Flat Mast Step
                        Uppers      Lowers
      0-8 knots true    300         150
      8-14 knots true   400         300
      14+ knots true    450         400

The above numbers are in pounds and should be read from the scale on a Loos Gauge. Keep in mind that class rules prevent you from adjusting your shrouds after the five minute warning signal.

Jib Tracks
To fine tune the jib, it is important to have more adjustment on the leads. The track holes for the jib leads are too far apart. Drill two extra holes between each set of factory holes in the jib tracks and then mark the deck for your desired settings.

The purpose of these instructions is to simplify your sail trimming decisions by outlining the sail trim positions that the Shore J 22 Team has found to be fastest through extensive testing and racing experience. By following this guide, you can spend a minimum amount of time assessing your sail trim, allowing you to concentrate more fully on tactics.

Jib Trim
In light air, the halyard should be tensioned so that a few wrinkles remain in the luff. As the wind increases to a range of 10-14 knots and above, the tension should be increased so the wrinkles are just eliminated.

The top third of the sail should break slightly sooner than the bottom third.

We suggest placing a tape mark 4" from the outboard end of the spreader tip. This is a reference mark for trimming your jib (the extension of the leech where it would intersect the spreader is the point of reference). When sailing in light air the leech of the jib should be trimmed at the spreader tip. In medium breeze the jib can be trimmed to your 4" tape mark or, depending on the sea condition, 5" to 6" in from the spreader tip. As you become overpowered, ease to 2" off the spreader lip.

It is important to mention that as the boat hits waves or is trying to accelerate off the starting line or out of a tack, you should ease the jib sheet slightly to develop more power.

Upwind Mainsail Trim
In light to moderate wind, the cunningham should not be used. This should position the draft about 50% back in the mainsail. As the breeze builds and you need to use more backstay, you will also need to tension the cunningham. As soon as all crew members are hiking, the cunningham should be pulled on enough to remove nearly all the wrinkles.

The outhaul should be set no looser than 1" off the band. The general rule of thumb is 1" off in light air, 3/4" off in moderate air and at the band in heavy air.

An excellent guide to trimming your Shore J 22 main is aligning the upper batten parallel with the boom. This is viewed by sighting directly underneath the boom up toward the upper batten. From this point of reference. the top batten should be open 5 degrees. As the wind increases the top batten should be opened up more as your healing increases. In light to moderate breezes (0-6 mph) the traveler should be to windward of centerline approximately 6-8". With the mainsheet eased slightly so the upper batten is 5 degrees open, the boom should be very close to centerline of the boat. As the wind builds to 8-10 mph, the traveler should be let down to keep the boom on the centerline.

In heavier winds, do not hesitate to dump the traveler to leeward to help keep the boat tracking and under control. By easing the traveler and angling the mainsail off centerline, the boat will tend to sail at a much more steady pace. If you find your J 22 is not moving at top speed, very often it will be due to faulty mainsail trim. Don't hesitate to call your Shore sailmaker if you have any additional sail trim questions.

Another method for heavy air mainsail trimming is to vang sheet. Simply trim your mainsail very light and pull all the slack out of the vang. When you are sailing upwind and you get hit with a puff, instead of playing both the traveler and mainsheet, you simply ease the mainsheet. The boom will ride down to leeward instead of rising up, keeping constant leech tension and enabling you to steer through the puffs and around big waves much easier. One thing to remember is to ease the vang slightly before rounding the weather mark, especially if the first reach is very tight.

Downwind Mainsail Trim
Downwind mainsail trim is quite simple. In all conditions (up to when you are on the verge of broaching), the vang should be tensioned just enough to bring the top batten parallel with the boom. The outhaul should be eased until the shelf foot is all the way open and no further. The cunningham and backstay should be slack.

In completely overpowering conditions off the wind, tension the backstay and lower the pole slightly to open the leeches of both sails. From there, use the vang as your throttle to power up and down in puffs.

Vang Adjustment

The vang is set to allow the upper batten to twist off approximately 10 degrees from being parallel with the boom when the sheet is eased on the tacks. This allows the main to remain "powered up" accelerating the boat onto the new tack. In heavy air, the vang should be pulled very hard to allow the sheet to be eased without allowing the leech to spill.

Vang sheeting should be employed in very heavy, puffy conditions where spilling power quickly is imperative. When vang sheeting, the traveler should be cleated off in the center. ln less gusty conditions the traveler can be played to keep the boat flat. Traveler sheeting results in a tighter backstay than vang sheeting, while vang sheeting allows you to make quicker adjustments.

Backstay Adjustment
The backstay is used to control the amount of fullness, and, thus, the amount of power in both the main and jib. As the amount of tension on the backstay is increased, two things happen: 1. the mast bends, flattening the main and 2. the amount of tension on the forestay increases, resulting in a tighter forestay and flatter jib.

When adjusting the backstay, pay careful attention to both wind strength and sea conditions. On the average, the backstay should not be tensioned until the wind strength reaches approximately 8 knots. Once you begin to tighten the backstay, enough tension should be applied so you feel under control, taking care not to depower so much that the boat stalls when it hits a wave or a light spot. The heavier the breeze, the harder the backstay is pulled to help keep the boat under control.

Spinnaker Trim
Here are three general suggestions for trimming your spinnaker in light, moderate and heavy air.

Light Air
Ventilate the Chute - In very light air, the extra large area of the Shore spinnaker needs to be ventilated. (Ventilating means getting the air flowing over the chute. Ease the sheet and head up a little, then steer back to course. Make this maneuver smooth, and don't over sheet.) Don't go dead downwind until top speed for these conditions has been reached. In light air and chop, you should not attempt to sail lower than 90-degree jibing angles.

Moderate Air
Pole Height - When broad reaching or running in winds below 10 knots apparent, the outboard end should be positioned so the tack is slightly lower than the clew. This helps project the maximum area of the spinnaker. When the apparent wind exceeds 10 knots, raise the pole so that the clews are even.

Heavy Air
Tack and Clew - When tight reaching the tack and clew should be even.

Four-person Crew
Moving from the back of the boat forward, we label each position:

2. Cockpit
Upwind - Tail jib sheet (do not cleat it). Check sail trim and monitor sail and pointing ability compared to other boats.
Tacking - Release old sheet, tack new sheet and tail from the weather rail.
Weather mark - Ease jib 6" and cleat it. Pull spinnaker guy around and trim. Hand spinnaker sheet tail to spinnaker trimmer.
Jibe - Twings.
Leeward Mark - Jib up. Clear spinnaker sheet tails. Trim jib in and tail from rail.

3. Spinnaker Trimmer
Upwind - Tactics, run tapes on spinnaker if necessary.
Weather mark - Pay out spinnaker from companionway. Trim sheet after the halyard and guy are fully hoisted.
Jibe - Trim both spinnaker sheets. Hand the new spinnaker guy to cockpit crew if necessary.
Leeward mark - Pull slack into leeward sheet on takedown. Stuff spinnaker into companionway as you pull it around the rig.

4. Bow
Upwind - Sort halyard tails, pre-set pole controls. Jib halyard/jib cunningham, main cunningham adjustment, boom vang adjustment.
Weather mark - Pole on, spinnaker halyard up, jib down.
Jibe mark - Jibe pole.
Leeward mark - Outhaul, pole off and stowed, release spinnaker halyard.

Three-Person Crew
Moving from the back of the boat forward, we label the positions:

2. Trimmer
Upwind - Trim jib. Monitor speed and pointing ability compared to other boats.
Tacking - Release old sheet, tack new sheet and tail from the weather rail.
Weather mark - Ease jib 6" and cleat it. Trim sheet. Take guy from helmsman.
Jibe - Rotate chute with both sheets. In light air, help roll the boat through the jibe.
Leeward mark - Gather spinnaker into compagionway, trim jib.

3. Bow
Upwind - Sort halyards, pre-set pole controls. Jib halyard/jib cunningham, main cunningham and boom vang adjustments. Call wind and waves.
Weather mark - Pole on, raise spinnaker, jib down. Ease cunningham and outhaul.
Jibe - Release downhaul 2", jibe pole. Help roll boat in light air.
Leeward mark - Outhaul, cunningham on. Jib up, pole off, ease downhaul, release spinnaker halyard. Organize for upwind.

Procedures and Priorities

The Start
The key to sailing in a J 22 is to get off the line with a good space to leeward. Once you have opened up a one or two boat length space to leeward, you will be free to point or drive as you choose.

In a typical starting scenario, you will likely be lined up and luffing on the starling line with 30-45 seconds remaining. When accelerating out of this position it is important to first sheet in the mainsail and then the jib. If you trim the jib in before the boat is moving forward, it will drag the boat into the space to leeward.

Prior to the start, sail upwind and establish the correct setting for your traveler, backstay and jib leads. At the start, be sure that the traveler is set for starboard tack and that you get the main and jib sheets on hard for pointing as soon as the boat is up to speed. If you weather sheet, it is helpful for the spinnaker trimmer (middle crew) to hold the winch handle and then to crank the winch on the final approach to the start.

Tacking
Most poor tacks are the result of poor steering. The J 22 should be turned quickly at first and then slowed down as it passes head to wind. At the point where the boat is about 20 degrees off the wind on the new tack, the helmsman should allow it to glide forward momentarily to allow the cockpit crew time to tail the sheet before the jib is loaded up.

The bow person typically walks around the mast when tacking while the middle crew goes under the boom. The helmsperson's jobs are to tack the boat and the traveler. Except in very light air or very choppy conditions, it is not necessary to adjust the mainsheet during tacks.

The jib trimmer should remain in the cockpit only until he or she can no longer trim the jib without the use of the winch handle. Then he should go directly onto the rail, always facing outboard and wrapping the sheet on the winch as he goes by. He can then insert the handle and do the final trimming of the jib with all crewmembers sitting out to weather.

Upwind
Keep the crew weight bunched as closely together as possible. There are very few reasons to get off the rail of the J 22 when sailing to weather. Load the guy into the pole end by passing the pole back along the weather rail, loading it, then pushing it forward into position. Run the spinnaker tapes by leaning into the boat from the rail. lf spinnaker gear is fouled to leeward, get it on the next tack. Pick your lightest crewmember to get off the rail to clear the rudder of weeds or to adjust the jib leech line.

Weather Mark
Set the pole as early as possible and then have the bow person crouch on the rail in his normal position fore and aft. Next, the spinnaker trimmer leans back and slides the hatch open. Then he or she pulls the spinnaker tack out of the boat while the trimmer pulls the guy back. Take care that the spinnaker does not foul on the forward leeward corner of the main hatch. This is the cause of most spinnaker rips.

As your boat overlaps the weather mark, the guy should be half way to the pole end. As the boat rounds the mark, the guy should be aggressively pulled out to the pole end while the halyard is pulled up. The jib should only be eased 6" or so. If the foot of the jib is too far out, the spinnaker will go under the jib instead of around its leech. Keep in mind that the J 22 is a small boat If you get a wrap in the spinnaker, it is usually fastest to grab it at the wrap and sort it out directly rather than taking the spinnaker down.

Jibe Mark
If you are rounding the jibe mark with a group of boats, your priority is to put the boat in the right place tactically and worry about getting the pole on later. Once on the new jibe you can sail the boat high into a passing lane with the spinnaker clew hooked on the headstay and all crewmembers on the rail. Once you are clear of the other boats, bear away slightly and ease the sheet while the bow person pushes the pole out.

Leeward Mark
A good leeward mark rounding is one where you come out of the mark with speed and pointing ability. To prepare for the rounding, pre-set all the mainsail controls and position the traveler for port tack. The jib can go up early as long as it is not trimmed in. You should have a mark on your halyard and a scale on the mast so that you can set the halyard exactly where you had it on the previous beat. A halyard that is too tight will result in poor pointing ability immediately after rounding, and one that is too loose will hamper straight line speed.

Take the pole off while one person flies the spinnaker guy by hand, acting as a "human pole." After the pole is stowed, the spinnaker trimmer releases the sheet and pulls it through the blocks. This person then pulls the spinnaker around the headstay. The halyard should be released as soon as the crew starts to pull the sail around the rig. One person can usually pull the sail around the rig and stuff it into the hole while the trimmer brings in the jib. Everyone should hike as soon as possible.

The main and jib should be trimmed in simultaneously as the boat rounds the mark. As at the start, if the jib is trimmed too quickly, it will tend to drag the bow down into the boat rounding ahead of you.

Practice Having Fun
Sit down with your group and go through each maneuver verbally. Then put up some old sails and go out and thrash around some mooring buoys, lobster pots or whatever is available. Concentrate on doing your own job well and not on instructing each other. After a disastrous rounding, stop and take a break before you start yelling at each other.

Remember, this is supposed to be fun. If you finish the day laughing and you haven't destroyed your equipment, you've had a good day. And if your whole team has fun, there is a good chance they will come back for the next race and do even better.

This table is a summary of our instructions and will help you quickly determine whether your sails are at optimum trim. If you have any questions or problems with your sails or the set up of your boat, please contact Shore Sails.

Wind strength	0-3	5-10	10-15	15-20
Shroud Tension (Angled Mast Step)
uppers	250	250	350	350
lowers	hand tight	250	350	350
Shroud Tension (Flat Mast Step)
uppers	300	400	450	450
lowers	150	300	400	400
Jib Halyard Tension	Wrinkles	Just Wrinkles	Just Remove Wrinkles
Jib Trim (in from spreader tip)	0	4"	4"	2"
Main Cunningham	50% Wrinkles	30% Wrinkles	No Wrinkles
Outhaul Upwind (inches from band)	1"	3/4"	1/2"	0"
Vang Tension Upwind (degree of upper batten twist)degrees	Novang	5º-7º	5º	10º
Traveler (using vang sheeting)	4" up/center	2" up/center	center	4" Leeward
Backstay	0	0-4"	6-12"	max.on